Worked lower body today.  The goal of lower body work for climbing is maximizing the ROM of the knees and hips, joint stabilization and effective relative body weight strength.  always begin your workout with the most important exercises first, the major movers, as the control and stabilizing muscles need to be fresh to maintain control.

Body weight squats with balance domes

1×30 deep squats @ BW

2×40 deep squats @ BW

These are done while holding onto a pull up grip and standing on two balance domes.  The grip is adjusted so that while you are in a deep squat your arms should be fully extended and in the lockoff position with the legs fully extended.  Focus on FORM!  I do these with the goal of NOT PULLING with the arm.  I am engaging the arms for added balance when needed, but having a connection simulates climbing and builds the cordination of pushing with the legs while stabilizing with the arms.  This is important concept in climbing to develop.  When mastered you will conserve energy by using the legs more. Also work on grounding.  Push with the balls of the feet in a slight outward force to initiate the grounding actions.  Maintain this force throughout the squat to develop this skill.

Focusing on your form will yet better results for climbing rather than going through the motions of just squatting.

Lateral lunges

4×25 with 10lb

Keep the knee over the ball of the foot for the drive leg.  The rear leg should be straight to engage the abductor muscle in the hip and leg.  Lateral lunges are important to work on, as they open the hip joint and develop one’s ability to do long steps or high steps while climbing.  This is usually important at the cruxes.

Hamstring curls w/ bungees

3×12 with blue band

Do not lay flat, place a pillow or something under the hips to create a bend in the hips.

Knee Ups

3×12 hanging from rock rings

Conclusion

These exercises took about 35 minutes to comlpete as I was using a timer for the rest sessions.  I rested 1 minute between sets to work in a cardio component.  This type of training for climbing is a great suppliment for gym climbing, regular climbing sessions or in preparation for a big trip.  I have been training now for about two months.  My general fitness has improved and I am prepared to move towards more specific training for climbing.  Creating a large base reduces the chance of injury from overuse.

Patrick Weaver

Appalachian Mountain Institute