I climbed with Ed and Stephan today.  Ed and Stephan are from the Atlanta area and came up to do some ice climbing.  Ed has done some alpine climbing but was new to waterfall ice climbing.  Stephan had experience climbing both alpine and waterfall ice, evident by the old ice tools.  He even had some pound in ice screw protection.   It seemed as if it would be a great day working with these two, one had old stories the other new experiences.  This would be proven true.

Ed and Stephan wanted to get an early start knowing that the temperatures would warm up and the route was 1600 long.  This worked for me, as it gave us an extra window of safety.  I met them at 7 am and we quickly headed out.  Unfortunately, most things were closed on Sunday and we had a rough time finding a coffee and restroom.  We should have stopped in town.

I had climbed the route the day before under deep (4’) snow conditions.  Today the trail was well established with no new snow.  The crunching sound told me that the snow had consolidated some and refroze.  This would make trail easier.  A short hike in took us to the start of the route.

I climbed up the initial pitches and belay Ed and Stephan through the entrance bulges.  They climbed very efficiently.  We moved together over the snow pitches, working up and around bulges, trees and snow.  Soon we reached the first real pitch.  WI2 wall about 30 feet with another 80 feet of snow.  The ice was in better shape today and more solid.  They quickly followed this pitch and soon we were traveling up 3^rd class snow.

We reached the waterfall pitch and I suggest two possible paths WI3 and a WI4 pitch.  Stephan said to follow the WI 3 pitch and we could follow the other later.  Neither one had much trouble with the pitch as they climbed together.  What a great pitch, great ice, fantastic views and good company.

We continue up and soon reached the final pitch.  I had placed a V-thread there the day before and it was still viable.  We descend the route by rappelling and down climbing the easier pitches.  When we reached the ground again Stephan said, “Next time I want to do something harder”.  Next time we’ll do Starshine on Whitesides Mountain.

Great climb guys

Patrick Weaver

Climbing guide

Appalachian Mountain Institute

October 17 predicted the first snow of the season.  Temperatures in the high country were supposed to drop and we were to have snow.  It didn’t disappoint.  I was not able to head up to Boone area with friends, but Phil Hoffman of Looking Glass Outfitters called and wanted to hang out.  We decided to brave the cold and find a place to camp near the parkway.

Marmot tent from LGO

Conditions were bad enough that driving on the parkway was not going to happen, so we drove down the west side on 215 to Flat Laurel Creek Trail.  This is the best area for winter hiking and ice climbing.  The parkway is always closed and limits your access to trails.  This trail head however, will get you to Sam’s knob and the Black Balsam area.  It is a great hike and always snowy when the temperature drops.

Sage the wonder dog

We left around 6 pm and it was dark when we arrived.  We set up the tents in an area that proved to be muddy once we got more light on the subject.  Not to worry, there was a great spot just 20 feet away.  Phil was testing a Marmot one man

tent.  It was a three season tent, and definitely was going to be a stretch under the conditions.  We had snow, sleet and wind.  The wind was blowing at around 20mph and gust up to 40 mph.  I had my old alpine stand by, Tiros Pro from Sierra Designs.  This tent was 20 years old, but other than having to replace the shock cords in the poles, was still a great winter tent.  It was over built for alpine environments and very stable in the wind.  A bit heavy though.

Morning light in the storm

We sat around and ate some food and talked for awhile.  However the cold beat us down and we made for the tents.  Sage was with me and this was her first camping trip.  I brought an extra sleeping bag for her and it was a good idea.  She needed the bag to stay warm.  The wind blew all night and kept the tent cold.  I was fine in my Marmot down bag.  Toasty warm with plenty of warmth for colder nights; I’ll have to go out some more this season to fine the limits of the bag.  Sage kept trying to crawl into my bag, but just would not fit.

Staying Warm

The trick to staying warm in winter camping is ground insulation and fuel.  I always use a therma rest ¾ thick with a ¾ thick form pad that is 3 quarters length.  This gives me an R value of around 3-4 and keeps me from cooling off from conduction with the ground.  This is more important than the bag.  Phil had a 0° bag but only one pad.  I used a 15° bag with two thick pads.  Most foam pads are ½ thick and are good for summer use, but not for winter.  Same with inflatable pads most are for summer use.  I have found the best combination is an inflatable and foam pad.  Thick foam is better; it will compress less and keep you off the ground.

Snow on the Blue Ridge

Another trick is to avoid the carbs.  Before you go to bed eat some food with a high fat content.  I had a thick soup with sausage.  Cheese is great too.  Pasta will just leave you cold.  I also went for a short walk to generate heat.  Not to aggressive or you’ll start to perspire; this will cause cooling by evaporation.  Phil had a neat trick, unzip the end of the bag and let your feet breath for awhile.  Again, moister build up can be bad.  Change the socks and don’t let your feet sweat.