Ed and Stephan

I climbed with Ed and Stephan today.  Ed and Stephan are from the Atlanta area and came up to do some ice climbing.  Ed has done some alpine climbing but was new to waterfall ice climbing.  Stephan had experience climbing both alpine and waterfall ice, evident by the old ice tools.  He even had some pound in ice screw protection.   It seemed as if it would be a great day working with these two, one had old stories the other new experiences.  This would be proven true.

Ed and Stephan wanted to get an early start knowing that the temperatures would warm up and the route was 1600 long.  This worked for me, as it gave us an extra window of safety.  I met them at 7 am and we quickly headed out.  Unfortunately, most things were closed on Sunday and we had a rough time finding a coffee and restroom.  We should have stopped in town.

I had climbed the route the day before under deep (4’) snow conditions.  Today the trail was well established with no new snow.  The crunching sound told me that the snow had consolidated some and refroze.  This would make trail easier.  A short hike in took us to the start of the route.

I climbed up the initial pitches and belay Ed and Stephan through the entrance bulges.  They climbed very efficiently.  We moved together over the snow pitches, working up and around bulges, trees and snow.  Soon we reached the first real pitch.  WI2 wall about 30 feet with another 80 feet of snow.  The ice was in better shape today and more solid.  They quickly followed this pitch and soon we were traveling up 3^rd class snow.

We reached the waterfall pitch and I suggest two possible paths WI3 and a WI4 pitch.  Stephan said to follow the WI 3 pitch and we could follow the other later.  Neither one had much trouble with the pitch as they climbed together.  What a great pitch, great ice, fantastic views and good company.

We continue up and soon reached the final pitch.  I had placed a V-thread there the day before and it was still viable.  We descend the route by rappelling and down climbing the easier pitches.  When we reached the ground again Stephan said, “Next time I want to do something harder”.  Next time we’ll do Starshine on Whitesides Mountain.

Great climb guys

Patrick Weaver

Climbing guide

Appalachian Mountain Institute