Hoosier Pass

David and I went West today to climb at Hoosier Pass on Mount Lincoln.  This was located near Breckenridge at 11,300 feet.  I was concerned about the altitude, but did fine on the approach and seemed to be solid for the experience.

The climbs were up on a rock face about a 1 mile from the parking area.  We were able to walk along an old mining road to an abandon mine before we headed up the slope.  This lead to a Talus field and switch backs in the snow.  We did not need crampons for this as the trail was well established.  The last 400’ were tricky without crampons though.  It depended on the amount of rocks available to walk on.

The flow left of middle was the big classic WI3 with WI4 variations.  I got the first lead and headed up WI3+ terrain on the far right.  A second party climbed up the easier left side on typical WI3 terrain.  This pitch was wet and running.  Soon my gloves were soaked.  I had two steep sections to work through.  I place one screw on each 20 foot section as the sticks were very positive and I did not want to get completely soaked.  I move up a grove of weakness rather than the WI4 to avoid spending too much time in the drip.  I reach the belay ledge and move out left to get a view of the next two pitches.  WI2 steps led to a big WI4 pitch.  It looked big to me.  I set up belay on the driest ice I could fine with a small tree and a 19cm screw.

Snow Squall

David followed the pitch, but as he was climbing a snow squall move through and the temperature dropped to probably -10 with wind chill.  The wind was blowing so hard I could not hear David as he climbed up.  I had changed my glove to my belay gloves to try and dry my climbing gloves.  I had left to second set in my pack and did not have a replacement.  This concerned me as wet hands freeze easily in this cold.  David suggested that we abandon this area and he would lead the next two pitches together to get to the decent gulley quicker.

He quickly move through the WI2 section, but was taking a longer time on the WI4 section.  He placed 6 screws on this section, which was bigger and longer than he thought.  I waited for David to put me on belay.  He was taking a long time and something was wrong.  I started climbing after David gave me the ok, but he could not keep pace with me.  I had to slow my progress.  I put my climbing gloves on to make it easier to remove the screws, but they were wet.  My left hand was soon frozen stiff.  I could not move my ring finger or pointing finger.  I climb up the WI4 and was desperately trying to remove the screws.  David is left handed and placed the screws on the left side, my frozen hand.  It was a steep and very long WI4 pitch.   When I topped out David was having trouble pulling the rope through the belay device.  It was frozen in spots and he was exhausted.  I quickly put my belay gloves back on to try and regain my mobility in my hands.  David remarked that he almost past out when he reached the belay.  The cold made this lead challenging and David just climbed three pitches in one go.

As my hands warmed up, the pain was unbearable.  I am sure David thought I was a wimp, but oh well I like to yell when my hands freeze.  We coiled the rope for the decent and soon we were working along the top trying to avoid the drop off the cliff.  I went higher to get into snow and off the ice.  I soon was down the gulley and then the sun came out and the wind died down.

I asked David if he wanted to wait a bit and see if we could recover from this and lead another pitch.  He said he had some tea and so did I.  I drank and ate a Gu.

Thin Ice Lead on Mount Lincoln

Ice climbing

There was a thin smear up and left of the packs that I thought I could lead.  We move the gear up and I sized up the pitch.   It was short maybe 60 feet that started with a vertical step to lower angle ice that steepened to 85° and ended in a short column that topped out with a rock wall on the right.  The top out looked awkward but there was some fatter ice just below this.  The lower ¾ of the route was thin ice.  I wasn’t too sure how thin, but I thought I could get stubbies in this.

I asked David for the stubbies and he said, “You’re going to hate me, but I left them back at home.”  Not good.  I had three 13cm screws with me and figured that I could get them in.  I started up the thin step.  Pick, pick, pick, dink!  I hit rock.  This was thin, maybe 1 inch.  I thought I could climb up and see if it improved and climb down this if it didn’t.   I moved up and each placement was pecking moves as not to break all the ice.  At the top of the step I was able to sink two good picks.  I manteled up on the tools and accessed the situation.  Too hard to climb down and the ice looked thicker.  I reached for my shortest screw and tried to place it.  It barely went in half way, gees only 2 inches!  I moved the screw after David suggested trying a location that looked thicker.  This screw placement when in 3 inches; great only an inch or two sticking out.  I clipped it with a screamer.  If I fell I figured I would be the one screaming.

Ice Smear

I continue up the ice.  Each placement was a series of pecking actions with the axes to chip away a hold for the pick.  I would then pull down sharply to set the pick.  Several times the picks would bottom out on the rock.  I kept my weight low and maintained a semi-crunched position.  This keeps the weight on the feet and off the arms.  I was placing the crampon front points into the old pick placements to avoid fracturing more ice.  I saw a crack in the rock up and right and move toward this in hopes of placing a pin.  The crack was wide and shallow, perfect for a sawed off baby angle, which I did not have.  I decided to place another screw.  I cranked this in slowly, it stopped.  I turned a little harder; it began turning again, deeper into the ice.  It stopped again, this time for good.  It was against rock.  Damn it, this placement was shallower than the first.  I tied it off short with a clove and clipped the rope.  Should I lower off, down climbing was not going to happen as the ice was a full 85° at this point?  I looked up, the angle did not get any steeper and in another 10 feet the ice seemed thicker.  If the ice didn’t get brittle and plate off I should be able to get to the thicker ice without any increased hazard.

I moved on, partially knowing that the ice looked better and partially afraid to commit to lower off that screw.  I move up a few feet, the ice was good.  Pick, pick, pick and hook.  Pick…crack, the ice plated all around the placement.  Not good.  I move the placement left by crossing over my lower pick; awkward and out of balance, but it allowed a fresh chance at new ice.  Gently, pick, pick, pick and hook.  No fracture.  I moved my crampons left to center under the high pick.   I went again, pick…crack.  This time I continued to peck at the ice and shape a hook placement.  This afforded a secure placement to move up on.  Each time I moved it was one limb at a time.  I move one axe and then each crampon, keeping my position secure and the weight on the feet.  Never outstretched which raises your heels and can cause the front points to blow out.

I reached the base of the column.  It was only four feet tall but narrowed to about a foot and a half wide.  This would make the exist mantel awkward as there was nothing but rock to the left and right.  I place a 16cm screw all the way in.  This was a big relief but I wanted some redundancy in the system as a fall from here would rip out any of the lower screws.  I placed a second equally secure screw and knew that they would easily hold a fall at this point.

I saw a small edge out on the left wall.  I thought I might use this, but the ice looked thin from below and I opted for the thicker ice on top of the column.  This proved very difficult and I had to resort to using my knee to balance myself; a practice that is typically mocked at by other climbers.  It must have looked good as David said, “nice job” as I topped out. I let out a yell of satisfaction.  This was challenging lead and I felt great about pulling it off.

I lowered from a bolt anchor and David and I high fived each other.  I belayed him as he cleaned the pitch.  I re-climbed on top rope and was able to avoid using the knee this time.  I set a directional on another climb to the left.  Super thin, but I had my fill of hard leads today. We each top roped it and headed for Boulder.

Leading thin ice