Grade Appropriate Protection

The following statements reflect the need for route development that seeks balance for all users.  It does not advocate retro-bolting routes (unless permission is granted by the first ascentist), grid bolting, convenient anchors where traditional anchors can be adequately obtained.  These statements in no way mean any disrespect towards the pioneers of climbing.  These statements do not advocate any disrespect towards bold routes or bold climbing.

These statements are intended to set forth some acceptable practices for engineering routes that exhibit grade appropriate protection.  These guidelines reflect easy to intermediate grades, more than the upper grades.

1. Protection is provided by natural gear placements and bolts where there are no natural placements that are adequate for the fall potential.  Bolts should not be placed if the section of the climb can be protected by natural placements that is adequate to hold the fall.
2. The need for a bolt placement is determined by the potential and consequence of the fall.
   1. How difficult is the climbing relative the route’s grade, not the climber’s ability.
   2. How far is the fall potential?
   3. What is the likelihood of hitting an object, or ground?
3. Route engineering should consider a protection system rather than protecting single moves.
4. Protection should be closer together in the upper half of the grade and further apart in the lower half of the grade. Grade being the single hardest move or overall difficulty if there are successive moves of equal difficulty.
5. Considerations for protection on run outs on easy terrain relative to the grade should be made if:
   1. There is potential for loose rock or hold breaking
   2. There is a potential to shock load the anchor
   3. Protection is required for the second.
6. Protection for the second should be considered while engineering routes.  For example, protection before and after crux moves during traverses, or when necessary to manage the fall line.  The second should not be exposed to more risk than the leader.
7. Rappel stations that are frequently used should be bolted rather than utilizing trees.
8. Rappel stations should make every effort to avoid vegetated areas to reduce compaction and erosion of soil along the cliff top.
9. When possible, fixed rappel stations should avoid topping out the climb to reduce impact on the cliff line vegetation along the cliff top. Topping out climbs impacts the cliff line vegetation and increases erosion.