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	<title>Appalachian Mountain Institute</title>
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		<title>Hard climbing into the spring season</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/hard-climbing-into-the-spring-season/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/hard-climbing-into-the-spring-season/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 16:55:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jennywallace</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jenny's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[north carolina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rock climbing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1353</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I see all the activities I do as an image of my life. What I do on the rock, on the bike, or on the yoga mat, just to name a few, directly reflects how I live. With this perspective, I learn so much about how to live in a way that will support what [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I see all the activities I do as an image of my life. What I do on the rock, on the bike, or on the yoga mat, just to name a few, directly reflects how I live. With this perspective, I learn so much about how to live in a way that will support what I give to the world and what I get back in return. It is an on-going reciprocation of giving and receiving, an awareness of the connection to life. This semester in paramedic school has been a big challenge, and where there are challenges in life, there seldom is time for awareness in how to live in balance with this reciprocal way of life. That&#8217;s the paradox, really, because where there&#8217;s a challenge, there&#8217;s the chance to learn something, and use that to enhance awareness. I try to keep this philosophy in mind when I feel stressed with school, but it seems impossible sometimes. That is, until I get outside.</p>
<p>Recently, I have been giving my stress an analogy of biking up a really steep hill. And when I say steep, I mean impossible steep. I went in to talk to my academic advisor, who is also our teacher about feeling overwhelmed with the amount of knowledge we have to study and learn. This is not simply things we need to know long enough to pass a test; our schooling is not simply about grades, but about the public health. I take this very seriously because I not only want to be a good public servant, but a great medical provider, prepared to save lives with the best knowledge available to me. You can really sum up the stress I feel in a common saying: It&#8217;s a matter of life or death. So with this pressure I give to myself, I go see my teacher to seek help. He isn&#8217;t the kind of guy to pat you on the head and tell you that it will be ok, you&#8217;ll do fine; though academically, I am doing fine. Instead, he tells me that this semester and the summer semester coming up &#8220;are all uphill&#8221;. And so we&#8217;re back to my bike analogy; he stepped right into it without me even mentioning it.</p>
<p>About two weeks ago, on probably the first day it actually felt like spring would really happen this year, I went for a bike ride. I hadn&#8217;t been in a while, and WOW did it feel good to be outside. When we got to the neighborhood that winds uphill for 3 miles or so, I began a biking meditation on what I can get out of working hard to go uphill. I started to picture those roads as the road I&#8217;m on in school right now, how they make me sweat and work harder than I am accustomed to. I pictured the hill as a journey to awareness; but more than that, I pictured it as fun. My stress is my sweat, and at the end of the ride, it makes me feel good, better than I felt before. It makes me feel strong. So after that ride, my simple biking uphill analogy became the catalyst for feeling good at working hard. Instead of an analytical analogy, I now have a mantra, a practice.</p>
<p>Yesterday, 3/5/10, was the first day of Spring Break for Asheville School, so after anatomy class instead of taking a bunch of teenagers climbing, I actually got to get on the rock for some fun. Don&#8217;t get me wrong! I LOVE my part-time job, but with that, family, and my own schooling, it&#8217;s really hard getting out for fun. The weather was a little chilly but absolutely beautiful. I went with a fellow paramedic student, Van Roberts who climbs a lot <em>and</em> a lot harder than I usually do. Instead of biking uphill, I was climbing up the Bald, and it was work! I think for Van, the hike in was the warm up. He got us started on the climbing with a 5.10 <em>Drivin &amp; Cryin, </em>which was a beast for me. I didn&#8217;t pull the crux, even though the chilly temperature made the friction unbelievably good. I almost had it, but alas, I got scraped up a bit and then pulled a different move to get up. It&#8217;s one of those climbs that doesn&#8217;t have only one hard move; there&#8217;s more above it. I made it up though, felt pretty exhausted at the top. It didn&#8217;t help that I had a clinical shift the night before on a fairly busy ambulance. I came tired that day. <strong>But that&#8217;s ok, you know,</strong> that&#8217;s what I&#8217;m talking about here: the ability to find fun and enlightenment in the hard stuff.</p>
<p>The beautiful day continued along with the hard climbing. We went from that route to the 5.7 above it, <em>Gift Certificate.</em> That was easier climbing, but really pretty cold. We took a break after we came down, and then did the 5.10c right next to <em>Drivin &amp; Cryin. </em>Van helped me on the crux a little there, but again, I was ok with that. For our final climb, we went to do <em>Chickenheads, </em>a supposed 5.9; I say &#8220;supposed&#8221; because for me it was just as hard as the other climbs previous. It was really juggy, but also really pumpy. I didn&#8217;t know if I was going to make it up all the way, I was so tired by that point. I had to aid through the top overhang crux, but I made it. That route also was one where it wasn&#8217;t hard in just one place, and after the overhang it felt extra challenging.  When I cleaned the route and got down, I was spent. But I felt so good. Though my body is pretty sore today from climbing hard after not climbing much lately, I still feel good; especially after a few yoga poses this morning (<em>Pigeon, Supta virdrasana, Reclining twist, </em>and some other relaxing seated poses to pull out the hamstrings and thighs).</p>
<p>While I was stretching my body out physically in poses, I meditated again on the power different challenges can have for changing one&#8217;s perspective. Whether it&#8217;s physical or mental or both, the challenges I bring into my life assist my practice in living fully and within my ultimate truth. I don&#8217;t always remember this practice. When I am out of my awareness, I feel sad, exhausted, fearful, and insecure. When I get back to the practice, it is usually through climbing or biking. I so very grateful for those things in my life to remind me of the beauty that is a challenge. It makes me feel alive. I am also very grateful for the people who motivate me to get there, like Van and my husband-to-be, Charlie. I hope all beings have people to motivate their lives towards whatever practice brings them more balance and peace.</p>
<p>Namaste</p>
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		<title>Multipitch Ice climbing with Ed and Stephan</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/multipitch-ice-climbing-with-ed-and-stephan/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/multipitch-ice-climbing-with-ed-and-stephan/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Mar 2010 18:43:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blue ridge parkway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[north carolina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[north Carolina Ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick Weaver]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1338</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Ed and Stephan
I climbed with Ed and Stephan today.  Ed and Stephan are from the Atlanta area and came up to do some ice climbing.  Ed has done some alpine climbing but was new to waterfall ice climbing.  Stephan had experience climbing both alpine and waterfall ice, evident by the old ice tools.  He even [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: justify;">Ed and Stephan</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I climbed with Ed and Stephan today.  Ed and Stephan are from the Atlanta area and came up to do some ice climbing.  Ed has done some alpine climbing but was new to waterfall ice climbing.  Stephan had experience climbing both alpine and waterfall ice, evident by the old ice tools.  He even had some pound in ice screw protection.   It seemed as if it would be a great day working with these two, one had old stories the other new experiences.  This would be proven true.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Ed and Stephan wanted to get an early start knowing that the temperatures would warm up and the route was 1600 long.  This worked for me, as it gave us an extra window of safety.  I met them at 7 am and we quickly headed out.  Unfortunately, most things were closed on Sunday and we had a rough time finding a coffee and restroom.  We should have stopped in town.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I had climbed the route the day before under deep (4’) snow conditions.  Today the trail was well established with no new snow.  The crunching sound told me that the snow had consolidated some and refroze.  This would make trail easier.  A short hike in took us to the start of the route.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I climbed up the initial pitches and belay Ed and Stephan through the entrance bulges.  They climbed very efficiently.  We moved together over the snow pitches, working up and around bulges, trees and snow.  Soon we reached the first real pitch.  WI2 wall about 30 feet with another 80 feet of snow.  The ice was in better shape today and more solid.  They quickly followed this pitch and soon we were traveling up 3<sup>rd</sup> class snow.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We reached the waterfall pitch and I suggest two possible paths WI3 and a WI4 pitch.  Stephan said to follow the WI 3 pitch and we could follow the other later.  Neither one had much trouble with the pitch as they climbed together.  What a great pitch, great ice, fantastic views and good company.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We continue up and soon reached the final pitch.  I had placed a V-thread there the day before and it was still viable.  We descend the route by rappelling and down climbing the easier pitches.  When we reached the ground again Stephan said, “Next time I want to do something harder”.  Next time we’ll do Starshine on Whitesides Mountain.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Great climb guys</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Patrick Weaver</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Climbing guide</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Appalachian Mountain Institute</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Multipitch Ice climbing with Michael</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/multipitch-ice-climbing-with-michael/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/multipitch-ice-climbing-with-michael/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2010 11:49:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice conditions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[north Carolina Ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick Weaver]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1332</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[February 20th
I was fortunate enough to climb ice today with Michael Egues on Sam’s Knob in North Carolina.  Sam’s Knob is a long ice gully that is 1600 feet long when conditions allow.  Today was different however, more of the pitches were snow climbing as the Blue Ridge has been pelted with snow fall this [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>February 20th</p>
<p>I was fortunate enough to climb ice today with Michael Egues on Sam’s Knob in North Carolina.  Sam’s Knob is a long ice gully that is 1600 feet long when conditions allow.  Today was different however, more of the pitches were snow climbing as the Blue Ridge has been pelted with snow fall this year.  Michael has done a lot of rock climbing, is good technically and is a great belayer, but has never climbed ice before.  Well it didn’t take long for Michael to start swing the axes and kicking the crampons with confidence.</p>
<p>The hike was labored by the fresh snow, but the track was easy to follow as I had been up there on Tuesday.  Clearly there was some fresh snow, but not enough to cover the trail.  We made good time as Michael is in great shape.  At the base, we rack up and start up the first section of ice.  This lower section which is typically WI1-2 was snow covered except for the vertical steps.  This made for a real alpine feel.  It was like climbing an alpine route, snow knee deep, moving over ice bulges and kicking steps.</p>
<p>We wonder up the initial 400 feet of snow and ice the first large vertical step.  I led this section up to the transition.  A snowy laid top out always poses a tricky technical challenge.  The solid ice gives way to rotten ice under snow.  Care must be taken under these conditions as not to have your picks rip out as you are topping out.   I place an extra screw to safeguard the top out.  I moved up the snow a ways looking for solid ice.  It was tricky as the snow was layers of powder and frozen snow.  You would step through a frozen layer into more powder.  No protection here so I moved up higher for the belay.</p>
<p>Michael followed this pitch with a little challenge at the transition, but otherwise did a great job.  From here you get the first real view; a spectacular view of the valley and ridge line.  The snow capped the ridge line and made for great views.   This is the reason for climbing ice and alpine, great views and good company.</p>
<p>We continued enjoying each pitch until we reach the last pitch.  Here the workload increased dramatically.  I set up the belay in waist deep snow at the base of a short ice wall.  The last pitch was a fat WI3+ wall that was beautiful to climb and made more challenging by the deep snow.  We were treated to a wonderful view of the Tennessee Mountains covered in snow under blue skies.  It was truly a great day.</p>
<p>Patrick Weaver</p>
<p>Climbing Guide</p>
<p>Appalachian Mountain Institute</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Climbing at Inner Peaks Gym</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/climbing-at-inner-peaks-gym/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/climbing-at-inner-peaks-gym/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2010 11:42:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Climbing gym]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1325</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Climbing at Inner Peaks
I took a group of high school students from Asheville School.  There were 8 students and Bryan Hall there to assist.  Inner Peaks Climbing is located in Charlotte but the drive from Asheville was quick and mostly on interstate.
We arrived shortly after opening and the place already had a fairly sizable crowd.  [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Climbing at Inner Peaks</h3>
<div id="attachment_1327" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 150px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1327 " title="Inner peaks " src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Inner-peaks-001-200x300.jpg" alt="Inner Peaks Climbing Gym" width="140" height="210" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Inner Peaks Climbing Gym</p></div>
<p>I took a group of high school students from Asheville School.  There were 8 students and Bryan Hall there to assist.  Inner Peaks Climbing is located in Charlotte but the drive from Asheville was quick and mostly on interstate.</p>
<p>We arrived shortly after opening and the place already had a fairly sizable crowd.  The students got there belay checks and soon we were climbing.  Joey, Bryan and I were swapping climbs and found plenty of routes to warm up on.  Bryan suggested climbing a couple of routes before switching the ropes and I agreed.  Joey drifted off to climb with others.</p>
<p>Inner Peaks has just expanded the size of the gym significantly.  I was excited about all the ropes available to climb.  There were probably 80 people in the gym and Bryan and I never had to wait on a rope or route to climb.  The staff had done an excellent job mixing the difficultly of routes so each rope had a route for everyone.  Bryan and I also marveled at the quality of the route setting.  The routes had an amazing variety and complexity to them.  Easier routes still had technical sequences and the harder routes were a mix of power and technique.  Inner Peaks has added a large boulder with a large overhanging wave.  Win and Wilson both were draw to this feature and topped out on a couple of problems.  Joey jumped in too.</p>
<div id="attachment_1328" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px"><a href="http://innerpeaks.com/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1328 " title="New Climbing Wall" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Inner-peaks-007-200x300.jpg" alt="New Climbing Wall" width="200" height="300" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">New Climbing Wall</p></div>
<p>Bryan and I logged twenty routes each in about 2 ½ hours of climbing.  All of us had a great time and plan on coming back.</p>
<p>There was plenty to do even though the gym had a large crowd of people.  everyone was having a great time, with plenty of routes to climb.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Rock climbing workout</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/rock-climbing-workout/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/rock-climbing-workout/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 14:56:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1322</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After getting back from colorado ice climbing I was able to catch up on office work and start a new training cycle.  Promptly I became sick for  week with a head cold and fever.  I start back up today with a upper body workout.
Lockoff on dowels
2x 15sec@BW,
2&#215;15 sec @ 10lb,
1 x 15 sec @ 11.25lb,
1x [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After getting back from colorado ice climbing I was able to catch up on office work and start a new training cycle.  Promptly I became sick for  week with a head cold and fever.  I start back up today with a upper body workout.</p>
<h3>Lockoff on dowels</h3>
<p>2x 15sec@BW,</p>
<p>2&#215;15 sec @ 10lb,</p>
<p>1 x 15 sec @ 11.25lb,</p>
<p>1x 15sec @ 12.5lb</p>
<h3>Coupled with Finger rolls</h3>
<p>8&#215;60lb</p>
<p>1&#215;6x100lb</p>
<p>4&#215;4@100lb</p>
<h3>Pull ups</h3>
<p>8&#215;10lb</p>
<p>6&#215;15lb</p>
<p>4&#215;20lb</p>
<p>4&#215;25lb</p>
<p>4&#215;30lb</p>
<h3>Coupled with Power cleans</h3>
<p>8&#215;50lb</p>
<p>4&#215;6@50lb</p>
<p>Incline</p>
<p>4 set of 8&#215;40lb</p>
<h3>Pronators</h3>
<p>3&#215;8 each arm</p>
<p>Overall I have lost some strength from the ice climbing, but probably gained muscular endurance.  I have seen this in the gym boulder.  Strength is a good thing to have in excess, but when you are climbing  a lot of pitches muscular endurance is important and is generally worked by climbing a lot of moderate pitches, wieght lifting with reps 0f 15+ or the rowing machine workouts.</p>
<p>Patrick</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Ice conditions Feb 1st</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-conditions-feb-1st/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-conditions-feb-1st/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Feb 2010 00:49:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice conditions]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1283</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Whiteside Mountain has very little ice.  Starshine is not formed at all and the face is coated with snow.  The gully routes are forming at the base and will be climbable in a day or two.  The upper pitches are doubtful thought as they are thin with icicles still forming up.
215
Icicles are forming, but it [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Whiteside Mountain has very little ice.  Starshine is not formed at all and the face is coated with snow.  The gully routes are forming at the base and will be climbable in a day or two.  The upper pitches are doubtful thought as they are thin with icicles still forming up.</p>
<p>215</p>
<p>Icicles are forming, but it is not consolidated enough for climbing.  The tops are all delaminated and running.  It should be climbable in a day or two, but doubtful that you can safely lead any routes.</p>
<p>It was cold last night 15 (degrees), but warm today.  Hopefully we will get some cold nights and cloudy days to help form the ice.</p>
<p>Patrick</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Ice climbing in Colorado</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-in-colorado-high-country/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-in-colorado-high-country/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 02:51:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[colorado]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick Weaver]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1260</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hoosier Pass
David and I went West today to climb at Hoosier Pass on Mount Lincoln.  This was located near Breckenridge at 11,300 feet.  I was concerned about the altitude, but did fine on the approach and seemed to be solid for the experience.
The climbs were up on a rock face about a 1 mile from [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Hoosier Pass</h3>
<p>David and I went West today to climb at Hoosier Pass on Mount Lincoln.  This was located near Breckenridge at 11,300 feet.  I was concerned about the altitude, but did fine on the approach and seemed to be solid for the experience.</p>
<p>The climbs were up on a rock face about a 1 mile from the parking area.  We were able to walk along an old mining road to an abandon mine before we headed up the slope.  This lead to a Talus field and switch backs in the snow.  We did not need crampons for this as the trail was well established.  The last 400’ were tricky without crampons though.  It depended on the amount of rocks available to walk on.</p>
<p>The flow left of middle was the big classic WI3 with WI4 variations.  I got the first lead and headed up WI3+ terrain on the far right.  A second party climbed up the easier left side on typical WI3 terrain.  This pitch was wet and running.  Soon my gloves were soaked.  I had two steep sections to work through.  I place one screw on each 20 foot section as the sticks were very positive and I did not want to get completely soaked.  I move up a grove of weakness rather than the WI4 to avoid spending too much time in the drip.  I reach the belay ledge and move out left to get a view of the next two pitches.  WI2 steps led to a big WI4 pitch.  It looked big to me.  I set up belay on the driest ice I could fine with a small tree and a 19cm screw.</p>
<h3>Snow Squall</h3>
<p>David followed the pitch, but as he was climbing a snow squall move through and the temperature dropped to probably -10 with wind chill.  The wind was blowing so hard I could not hear David as he climbed up.  I had changed my glove to my belay gloves to try and dry my climbing gloves.  I had left to second set in my pack and did not have a replacement.  This concerned me as wet hands freeze easily in this cold.  David suggested that we abandon this area and he would lead the next two pitches together to get to the decent gulley quicker.</p>
<p>He quickly move through the WI2 section, but was taking a longer time on the WI4 section.  He placed 6 screws on this section, which was bigger and longer than he thought.  I waited for David to put me on belay.  He was taking a long time and something was wrong.  I started climbing after David gave me the ok, but he could not keep pace with me.  I had to slow my progress.  I put my climbing gloves on to make it easier to remove the screws, but they were wet.  My left hand was soon frozen stiff.  I could not move my ring finger or pointing finger.  I climb up the WI4 and was desperately trying to remove the screws.  David is left handed and placed the screws on the left side, my frozen hand.  It was a steep and very long WI4 pitch.   When I topped out David was having trouble pulling the rope through the belay device.  It was frozen in spots and he was exhausted.  I quickly put my belay gloves back on to try and regain my mobility in my hands.  David remarked that he almost past out when he reached the belay.  The cold made this lead challenging and David just climbed three pitches in one go.</p>
<p>As my hands warmed up, the pain was unbearable.  I am sure David thought I was a wimp, but oh well I like to yell when my hands freeze.  We coiled the rope for the decent and soon we were working along the top trying to avoid the drop off the cliff.  I went higher to get into snow and off the ice.  I soon was down the gulley and then the sun came out and the wind died down.</p>
<p>I asked David if he wanted to wait a bit and see if we could recover from this and lead another pitch.  He said he had some tea and so did I.  I drank and ate a Gu.</p>
<h3>Thin Ice Lead on Mount Lincoln</h3>
<div id="attachment_1261" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 234px"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1261" title="Leading thin" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Leading-thin-224x300.jpg" alt="Ice climbing" width="224" height="300" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Ice climbing</p></div>
<p>There was a thin smear up and left of the packs that I thought I could lead.  We move the gear up and I sized up the pitch.   It was short maybe 60 feet that started with a vertical step to lower angle ice that steepened to 85° and ended in a short column that topped out with a rock wall on the right.  The top out looked awkward but there was some fatter ice just below this.  The lower ¾ of the route was thin ice.  I wasn’t too sure how thin, but I thought I could get stubbies in this.</p>
<p>I asked David for the stubbies and he said, “You&#8217;re going to hate me, but I left them back at home.”  Not good.  I had three 13cm screws with me and figured that I could get them in.  I started up the thin step.  Pick, pick, pick, dink!  I hit rock.  This was thin, maybe 1 inch.  I thought I could climb up and see if it improved and climb down this if it didn’t.   I moved up and each placement was pecking moves as not to break all the ice.  At the top of the step I was able to sink two good picks.  I manteled up on the tools and accessed the situation.  Too hard to climb down and the ice looked thicker.  I reached for my shortest screw and tried to place it.  It barely went in half way, gees only 2 inches!  I moved the screw after David suggested trying a location that looked thicker.  This screw placement when in 3 inches; great only an inch or two sticking out.  I clipped it with a screamer.  If I fell I figured I would be the one screaming.</p>
<div id="attachment_1262" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 197px"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1262 " title="thin ice 3" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/thin-ice-3-187x300.jpg" alt="Ice Smear" width="187" height="300" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Ice Smear</p></div>
<p>I continue up the ice.  Each placement was a series of pecking actions with the axes to chip away a hold for the pick.  I would then pull down sharply to set the pick.  Several times the picks would bottom out on the rock.  I kept my weight low and maintained a semi-crunched position.  This keeps the weight on the feet and off the arms.  I was placing the crampon front points into the old pick placements to avoid fracturing more ice.  I saw a crack in the rock up and right and move toward this in hopes of placing a pin.  The crack was wide and shallow, perfect for a sawed off baby angle, which I did not have.  I decided to place another screw.  I cranked this in slowly, it stopped.  I turned a little harder; it began turning again, deeper into the ice.  It stopped again, this time for good.  It was against rock.  Damn it, this placement was shallower than the first.  I tied it off short with a clove and clipped the rope.  Should I lower off, down climbing was not going to happen as the ice was a full 85° at this point?  I looked up, the angle did not get any steeper and in another 10 feet the ice seemed thicker.  If the ice didn’t get brittle and plate off I should be able to get to the thicker ice without any increased hazard.</p>
<p>I moved on, partially knowing that the ice looked better and partially afraid to commit to lower off that screw.  I move up a few feet, the ice was good.  Pick, pick, pick and hook.  Pick…crack, the ice plated all around the placement.  Not good.  I move the placement left by crossing over my lower pick; awkward and out of balance, but it allowed a fresh chance at new ice.  Gently, pick, pick, pick and hook.  No fracture.  I moved my crampons left to center under the high pick.   I went again, pick…crack.  This time I continued to peck at the ice and shape a hook placement.  This afforded a secure placement to move up on.  Each time I moved it was one limb at a time.  I move one axe and then each crampon, keeping my position secure and the weight on the feet.  Never outstretched which raises your heels and can cause the front points to blow out.</p>
<p>I reached the base of the column.  It was only four feet tall but narrowed to about a foot and a half wide.  This would make the exist mantel awkward as there was nothing but rock to the left and right.  I place a 16cm screw all the way in.  This was a big relief but I wanted some redundancy in the system as a fall from here would rip out any of the lower screws.  I placed a second equally secure screw and knew that they would easily hold a fall at this point.</p>
<p>I saw a small edge out on the left wall.  I thought I might use this, but the ice looked thin from below and I opted for the thicker ice on top of the column.  This proved very difficult and I had to resort to using my knee to balance myself; a practice that is typically mocked at by other climbers.  It must have looked good as David said, “nice job” as I topped out. I let out a yell of satisfaction.  This was challenging lead and I felt great about pulling it off.</p>
<p><img class="size-medium wp-image-1263 alignleft" title="thin ice 4" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/thin-ice-4-187x300.jpg" alt="thin ice 4" width="168" height="270" /></p>
<p>I lowered from a bolt anchor and David and I high fived each other.  I belayed him as he cleaned the pitch.  I re-climbed on top rope and was able to avoid using the knee this time.  I set a directional on another climb to the left.  Super thin, but I had my fill of hard leads today. We each top roped it and headed for Boulder.</p>
<div id="attachment_1264" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 624px"><img class="size-large wp-image-1264 " title="thin ice 6" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/thin-ice-6-1024x616.jpg" alt="Leading thin ice" width="614" height="370" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Leading thin ice</p></div>
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		<title>Ice Climbing in Colorado Springs</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-in-colorado-springs/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-in-colorado-springs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Jan 2010 18:40:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1236</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hurley Gully
David new of a great ice climb tucked away in the hills above Colorado Springs.  Problem was he had not climbed there since 78&#8242;!  We headed up Old Stage road trying to locate the pull off for the approach.  There was a truck along the road, but David said that the location did not [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Hurley Gully</h3>
<p align="left">David new of a great ice climb tucked away in the hills above Colorado Springs.  Problem was he had not climbed there since 78&#8242;!  We headed up Old Stage road trying to locate the pull off for the approach.  There was a truck along the road, but David said that the location did not look correct.  We drove further up the road until we reached a spot that looked plausible.</p>
<h3>Bushwhack from Hell</h3>
<p align="left">
<div id="attachment_1238" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 487px"><img class="size-large wp-image-1238 " title="First Pitch" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/First-Pitch-682x1024.jpg" alt="Ice climbing Colorado Springs" width="477" height="717" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Ice climbing Colorado Springs</p></div>
<p>We hiked in and began heading downhill.  We hike until we reach the bottom of the canyon, we found nothing!  We walked up, up, up and uphill some more.  I went from cold to boiling hot and had to shed more cloths.  We found the car easily and decide the truck has to be the proper location.  We followed faint tracks as most of the snow had melted.  This cliffed out and did not appear to have any ice.  We contoured back and forth looking for likely terrain that would hold ice.  Finally pay dirt, we saw a well worn trail and the bottom of a ravine.  We worked down to it and David correctly assumed that this was the way out not the way in.  We scrambled up and over a ridgeline getting into tricky 4<sup>th</sup> class climbing and located the descent trail.  The trail led to the base of a very fat climb that looked to be about a WI 4-.   There was a party above topping out and we decide to get ready and start climbing.  We were quickly greeted with a falling ice axe!  “Uh David, I am going to veto the decision to get started, let’s stay undercover.”  David replied, “You want a free axe.”   Soon a climber appeared over the lip getting lowered.  “Sorry about the axe”.  (Leashless).</p>
<div id="attachment_1239" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1239" title="David toping out" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/David-toping-out1-200x300.jpg" alt="David Topping out" width="200" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">David Topping out</p></div>
<p>David said the second pitch was WI4 and over 100 feet long, so I opted for the first pitch as we only had 6 draws and 8 screws.  I place three screws on this pitch which I thought was WI4ish.  I was wondering what the second pitch was like if this was only a three.   Well I found out when I topped out.  I built an anchor on a tree off to the side of a long, fat WI 3 pitch, never too steep, but long.   David looked at me and said, “I shouldn’t need more than 6 screws on this, yeh just six.”  David led out and gained altitude on the approach ramp and place one screw about 25 feet up.  Soon he had place three screws.  Must be tricky there I thought.  Now he place six screws and all 6 draws and was just past the 2/3 mark.  Two more screws went in the ice and David skillfully scavenged biners and clipped in the rope.  When he topped out he yelled down, “You know why I placed 8 screws on that?  I didn’t have 10!”</p>
<div id="attachment_1240" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1240" title="David on lead" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/David-on-lead-150x300.jpg" alt="David on lead WI3" width="150" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">David on lead WI3</p></div>
<p>I followed up and had a great time climbing on the pitch.  I led a short mixed exist section and we coiled ropes and headed for town.</p>
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		<title>Ice Climbing in Colorado</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-in-colorado/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-in-colorado/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Jan 2010 18:01:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice conditions]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1224</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I arrive 30 minutes early from the flight and David was ready to pick me up.  He was waiting just outside the Denver airport for my phone call.  This save the parking fee, David is always frugal.   We headed straight out to some climbs nearby.  The weather had been warm and the ice was melting, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;">I arrive 30 minutes early from the flight and David was ready to pick me up.  He was waiting just outside the Denver airport for my phone call.  This save the parking fee, David is always frugal.   We headed straight out to some climbs nearby.  The weather had been warm and the ice was melting, but the day’s high was in the 40’s so we were able get in a few hundred feet of ice on some local spots.</p>
<div id="attachment_1225" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1225" title="Colorado Landscape" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Colorado-Landscape-300x200.jpg" alt="Colorado Winter Landscape" width="300" height="200" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Colorado Winter Landscape</p></div>
<p>We drove up Clear Creek Hwy to a WI3.  It began with a short falls that was running a lot.  I led this pitch and placed a single screw.  David led the next pitch and we rapped down.  Wasn’t much up there?</p>
<p>We walked 5 minutes down the canyon to another spot.  I led an extremely melted pitch which had three steps in it.  I passed the first two steps without placing a screw.  I however was able to sling a column that forded excellent protection.  I stopped short of the last step as it was getting difficult to hear David over the</p>
<div id="attachment_1226" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1226" title="David leading ice " src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/DSCF1225-200x300.jpg" alt="David leading ice in CO" width="200" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">David leading ice in CO</p></div>
<p>road.  I built an anchor with a slung column and a single screw.  I rigged it with the rope as David was leading the next pitch.  David followed quickly and led the next section without pause to a couple of bolts.  We coiled the ropes and moved up easily third class.</p>
<div id="attachment_1227" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1227 " title="Ice screw threads" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Ice-screw-threads-300x200.jpg" alt="Ice screw hole" width="300" height="200" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Ice screw hole</p></div>
<p>A nice looking vertical fall loomed as next pitch.  It was my lead and I moved up the ramp and place a screw from the top of the ramp.  I should have stayed lower; it would have been easier to place the screw.   I placed 2 more screws on the falls.  I topped out and placed a two screw anchor for David.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<div id="attachment_1229" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 560px"><img class="size-large wp-image-1229 " title="David toping out" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/David-toping-out-785x1024.jpg" alt="David Sweet, Guide and Avalache instructor" width="550" height="717" /><p class="wp-caption-text">David Sweet, Guide and Avalanche instructor</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1228" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1228" title="Visiting the AAC headquarters" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Visiting-the-AAC-headquarters-300x200.jpg" alt="American Apline Club Headquarters" width="300" height="200" /><p class="wp-caption-text">American Apline Club Headquarters</p></div>
<p>We coiled the rope and soloed a few hundred feet of WI1 to the top of the flow.  David and I walked off as there were parties coming up from below.  We headed into town and went to a couple of gear shops, Bent Gate Outfitters and Neptune’s.  Bent Gate was in Golden and had a tremendous amount of gear in stock.  I tried on some boot to see if I could get a better fit, was too sure about them.  We went to the Headquarters for the American Alpine Club.  This building was home to AAC, OB, and many other outdoor organizations.  I introduced myself and then we toured the museum of American Alpinism.  It was rich with history and photo and displays of many key events, people and technologies for mountaineering.</p>
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		<title>Ice climbing and a possible First Ascent</title>
		<link>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-and-a-possible-first-ascent/</link>
		<comments>http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/ice-climbing-and-a-possible-first-ascent/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Jan 2010 14:40:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>patrickweaver</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[AMI Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ice Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick's Rock Climbing Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ice conditions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Patrick Weaver]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/?p=1205</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Saturday I was fortunate enough to climb with a friend from the DC area, John Oster.  He came down with Michael and Bryan to climb ice over the weekend.  being alpinist, they wanted to do the long gully routes, sow we headed for a 1400&#8242; in Pisgah Forest.  I wanted to check it out as [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_1206" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 624px"><img class="size-large wp-image-1206 " title="Ice climbing in NC" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/ICE-cover-1024x682.jpg" alt="Ice climbing in North Carolina" width="614" height="409" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Ice climbing in North Carolina</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1209" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 110px"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-1209" title="ice solo" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/ice-solo-100x150.jpg" alt=" John on WI 1 in NC" width="100" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text"> John on WI 1 in NC</p></div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Saturday I was fortunate enough to climb with a friend from the DC area, John Oster.  He came down with Michael and Bryan to climb ice over the weekend.  being alpinist, they wanted to do the long gully routes, sow we headed for a 1400&#8242; in Pisgah Forest.  I wanted to check it out as there was a curtain that was close to forming up the last time I was there.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">When we got there there was a party ahead of us.  I didn&#8217;t know who it was so we waited to let them get ahead and enjoy the solitude of climbing in a more wilderness setting.  We packed up and walked in.  It was a beautiful hike.  The snow was deep, with a coating of fresh powder.  I was delighted to have a new crop of people to listen to my jokes, which lead to me probably talking too much again.  When we arrived at the base, Ben and Ryan was racking up.  I had worked with Ben when he was at Asheville School and it was great to see him again.  Unfortunately, he had severely cut his finger putting on the crampons.  This happens too often as the metal strap on the toe bail is sharp.  He contained the bleeding and as always was up for climbing on.</p>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: justify;">
<dl id="attachment_1210" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1210" title="ice cave" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/ice-cave-200x300.jpg" alt="Ice cave" width="200" height="300" /></a></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd">Ice cave</dd>
</dl>
</div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">We soloed the WI1 sections, moving quickly up 600 feet of terrain.  We hit the first WI2 wall of ice and Ben and Ryan where there and having trouble with the screws they brought.  We all decided to climb together and John headed off on lead.  Michael and Bryan worked as an independent team climbing behind John and I.  At the top of the WI 1 &amp; 2 section, there is a section of 3 class terrain.  John and I simul-climbed through this and made it to the waterfall pitch.  This pitch typically has a large WI3 flow down the middle and a WI4- to the far right over a rock cave.  The WI4- does not always come in, but it was fat and fully formed.  It was so big that the lower section was a little easier than normal, steps had formed.  The thing that caught my eye was the column.  I had never seen this come in, nor has anyone I know that has been climbing this route.  Ed had been climbing it since the 90&#8217;s and has not seen this in either.</p>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: justify;">
<dl id="attachment_1211" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 210px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1211" title="WI 4+ column" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/WI-4+-column-200x300.jpg" alt="WI 4+ in North Carolina" width="200" height="300" /></a></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd">WI 4+ in North Carolina</dd>
</dl>
</div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">It was forty feet +or -.  It had formed over a rock face with a double overhang.  This allowed the column to connect about 15 up and then again about 8 feet up.  The bottom was chandelier ice and 2 feet in diameter.  It was steep, very steep in the beginning.  I began climbing it with a very hollow sound ringing with every kick of the foot or swing of the axe.  Gently, very gently I moved up the ice, never kicking hard as I was concerned that the column would fall.  A section was broken and I had to clear it.  This created a foot step for the future.  Creeek&#8230;the sound your axe makes when it slices down between ice sickles is creepy and generally means that your axe will fail.  This happen twice in the lower section and freaked me out.  I stopped to place a screw, bad idea.  It only when in 3&#8243; before break through to air, no good and I wasted energy.  I move up to where the ice connected with the rock and place a screw.  This one was solid and I clipped in.  I stepped up on</p>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: justify;">
<dl id="attachment_1213" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 110px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-1213" title="Leading hard ice" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Leading-hard-ice-100x150.jpg" alt="Patrick on lead" width="100" height="150" /></a></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd">Patrick on lead</dd>
</dl>
</div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">a shelf for a rest, but it was too awkward to get the weight on my feet.  There was a curtain above the shelf that would break off if I tried to sink an axe so my axes where to the left of my cramps and I was off balance.  I decide to place a screw and head for the top.  I was wasting too much energy trying to rest.  I moved left onto the face of the column and the angle eased up to WI4 climbing.  I ran it to the top knowing that my gas tank was on empty and I could place any more screws. I topped out on low angle ice and place a directional for John.  That was the hardest short pitch I can recall ever climbing.  All those pull up helped a lot.</p>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: justify;">
<dl id="attachment_1214" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 275px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-large wp-image-1214  " title="Ice climbing in NC" src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Ice-climbing-in-NC-473x1024.jpg" alt="WI 4 + in NC" width="265" height="574" /></a></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd">WI 4 + in NC</dd>
</dl>
</div>
<p style="text-align: justify;">I was gassed out and John followed the pitch and did a nice job.  John lead the next WI1 pitch and belayed in the perfect location.  I followed</p>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: justify;">
<dl id="attachment_1217" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 150px;">
<dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/appalachian-guides/guided-ice-climbing/"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1217 " title="Ice climbing " src="http://appalachianmountaininstitute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Monkey-hang-200x300.jpg" alt="Monkey Hang " width="140" height="210" /></a></dt>
<dd class="wp-caption-dd">Monkey Hang </dd>
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<p style="text-align: justify;">and led up a short section and placed an ice screw belay.  This put me in a better position to watch John lead the next pitch, WI2+.  It was fat and had a 15 foot section of near vertical ice.  John did an excellent job leading the pitch and we rigged up for rappel.  All of use were tired and ready for home.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Getting down involve a lot of long rappels and a long section of down climbing to reach the bottom.  It was dark when we arrived at the car.  Pizza sounded good, so into town we went.  Big Mikes is the place for pizza in Brevard.  What a great day.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">John, thanks for the belay.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Ryan, thanks for taking the pictures</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Ben, thanks for cheering me on.</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">Good Climbing everyone</p>
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