If you ask a climber if she wants to go rock climbing, a likely response will be “what kind?” Answers to this follow up inquiry might include: bouldering, sport-climbing, trad, or multi-pitch. For folks that are new to climbing, the lingo may seem confusing. Let’s get this sorted out and point you to some places [...]
Rope Types
Dynamic Rope
Kernmantle ropes have two components that work together to create the desired performance. Some kernmantle ropes are static, meaning there is limited stretch. These ropes work best for jugging, hauling, rappelling and anchor construction. Climbers need a different type of kernmantle rope, dynamic. A dynamic kernmantle rope is designed to absorb energy from [...]
Last Monday four of us from Appalachian Mountain Institute was fortunate enough to visit the PMI factory and lab. PMI has been making ropes for over 25 years here is the USA. We were able to take a tour of the factory and learn how PMI makes dynamic climbing ropes and static ropes used for [...]
Avoiding the Drop
Your partner leads up a new pitch. You haven’t climbed here before but the climbing looks great. Your partner decides to lower off the climb after constructing a bomber anchor. You are congratulating him on a great climb and suddenly you feel something wrong. The rope passes through your brake hand and in [...]
Grade Appropriate Protection
The following statements reflect the need for route development that seeks balance for all users. It does not advocate retro-bolting routes (unless permission is granted by the first ascentist), grid bolting, convenient anchors where traditional anchors can be adequately obtained. These statements in no way mean any disrespect towards the pioneers of climbing. [...]
Tricam
Many climbers fail to recognize the value of tricams and instead miss protection opportunities that other types of protection simply will not work. The biggest advantage of tricams is versatility. Tricams are a dual purpose protection piece that can function passive (chocking) or actively (camming action). Tricams also are narrower that cams for the relative [...]
Aid climbing has a vocabulary that is unique the climbing circle. Here are some common terms and their definition or what they should mean. Anyone who rock climbs long enough will eventually hear some of these terms or may even become interested in trying aiding.
Aid Climbing Dictionary
A1 Aid rating system that denotes a (bomber) [...]
Getting starting in climbing is more complex than it used to be, climbers have a greater selection of gear, and sometimes it is hard to find someone with the experience necessary to get good advice from. In this article I want to present recommendation for rock climbing gear that works, is reliable and advice for selecting the most appropriate gear for your type of use. It will cover basic essentials: harness selection, helmets, belay devices, and shoes.
