Grade Appropriate Protection
The following statements reflect the need for route development that seeks balance for all users.  It does not advocate retro-bolting routes (unless permission is granted by the first ascentist), grid bolting, convenient anchors where traditional anchors can be adequately obtained.  These statements in no way mean any disrespect towards the pioneers of climbing.  [...]

Today I did a workout on my climbing wall.  The focus was on climbing movement and anaerobic energy systems.  The workout was conducted on a 45 degree overhung wall with a handcrack in the middle. The format was 4×4’s, four sets of four reps.
Set one
Jugs :40 climbing 1:30 rest
Set Two
Hand crack :40 climbing 1:30 rest
Set [...]

Join us on November 3rd, 2010 for a day of enhancing your understanding of risk management in the outdoor and adventure education fields at this year’s International AEE Conference in Las Vegas. This pre-conference will provide you with the opportunity to create/tweak your current risk management system, discuss best practices and learn from some experts [...]

I went for a rode ride today.  I had not been out since last week and I’ll be too busy this weekend to workout.  I rode from my house and did the 30 mile loop.  I felt good and was able to keep the chain in the big ring for most of the way.  I [...]

Today I enjoyed a fantastic day climbing with some friends.  Ken Pitts came up for a vacation with the family with the idea of doing some crack climbing and working on harder routes.  Shawn and Kristen from DC came and joined in the fun.  Ken wanted to climb in the PMRP at Chico Bonita.  He [...]

Tower Rock
The family wanted to climb today and I wanted to climb some cracks, so we headed to Tower Rock.  Tower Rock is one of two freestanding pinnacles in the Red and is home to some of the best moderate crack climbs.  There is also a perfect boulder for the kids to climb on.
Shawn had [...]

Yesterday Ken and I had the privilege of climbing with a group of kids from Wilmington NC.  They were out on an eight day trip.  This was the first time these kids had every done something like this.  Despite the smells , bug bites and being outdoors for 7 days, these kids were having a [...]

Training for climbing August 18th 2010
Trained early this morning for climbing by doing an upper body workout.  I warmed up with 5 minutes of rowing on the cocept 2 rower.
climbing intervals
set one
Jugs  4x :40 climbing with 1:30 rest
Set Two
Crack 4x :40 climbing with 1:30 rest
Set Three
System Board with 3 sec hesitations
4x :40 climbing with 1:30 [...]

I had the fortune of teaching an SPI course at Pilot Rock with a great group of people this past weekend.  I arrived the day before and set camp.  After scouting the area I headed back to camp and endured a blistering night out.  The temperature was quited hot and did not cool off until [...]

Ken and I had a real adventure out climbing at Shortoff Mountain.  The hike in there goes through a burned area and is exposed to sun shine and heat.  We drank a lot and still did not have enough water.  The climbing was interesting as we did Lost and Found.  It was covered in green [...]